Romania – Transylvania on Dialysis – Mountains, Adventures and a Broken-Down Car – Part One

Day 1 – Toruń → Budapest

I drove from Toruń in my own car.

First stop — Budapest. I arrived around 6 PM. A hotel right in the city centre, with underground parking. For anyone travelling by car, that’s not a luxury — it’s a must.

A short evening walk along the Danube. A glass of Tokaj Furmint. Back to the hotel.

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Next morning — a quick visit to the famous Central Market Hall. I stocked up for the days ahead in Romania — fresh vegetables, fruit, some classic Hungarian cured meats, and of course a bottle of Tokaj wine. Departure at 10:45, heading for Romania.

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Day 2 – Into Romania. The Village of Vurpar

I booked my accommodation through Airbnb. A small village called Vurpar, just a few kilometres from Sibiu. Link small cottage.

An authentic, historic wooden cottage. Quiet, peaceful, surrounded by nature. My host — Julian — brought fresh eggs and apple juice every morning. You couldn’t ask for a better breakfast.

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Dialysis in Sibiu — Diaverum

I booked my sessions through the BookDialysis app.

Interesting fact — Sibiu has two Diaverum clinics. I will cover the clinic in detail in a separate post.

My sessions were scheduled for 12:30.

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The daily routine was simple. Morning drive from Vurpar to Sibiu. A short walk through the Old Town and a coffee. Then a 10-minute drive to the clinic.

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One thing to keep in mind — Romania is in a different time zone. That one hour difference matters, especially in autumn when it gets dark quickly.

After dialysis I parked in the centre. A short rest at the Bridge of Lies. Coffee in a beautiful café with live music. Then back to the cottage.

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Day Free of Dialysis No. 1 — The Transfăgărășan Road

I spent the whole day on the Transfăgărășan — and I’d do it again without hesitation.

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What Is the Transfăgărășan?

One of the most famous roads in the world. It stretches 151 km through the Făgăraș Mountains, reaching 2,042 metres above sea level.

Built between 1970 and 1974. Ceaușescu ordered its construction as a military road — after the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia, he wanted a fast route across the Carpathians.

Jeremy Clarkson on Top Gear called it “the best road in the world.” He wasn’t wrong.

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Bend after bend. View after view. Every kilometre brings a new perspective.

At the very top of the Transfăgărășan, at an altitude of 2,034 metres, lies the stunning Bâlea Lake — a glacial lake surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks. In winter the lake freezes over completely and becomes home to a unique ice hotel, but even in summer it’s a breathtaking stop that alone is worth the drive.

Bears — Take This Seriously

I spotted bears on the road. They stand at the roadside and approach cars.

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One rule — do not feed them. They are wild animals, not a tourist attraction. Keep your distance.

Mici After the Tunnel — Non-Negotiable

On the far side of the summit tunnel, there’s a small bar.

Order the mici — Romanian grilled sausages cooked over charcoal. Simple, cheap, delicious. A classic.

Give yourself a full day for this road. Don’t rush it.

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Day Free of Dialysis No. 2 — The Transalpina Road

My second free day — Transalpina. A different road, equally breathtaking.

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A Bit of History

Transalpina is the highest road in Romania. The summit reaches 2,145 metres above sea level.

The first construction work was carried out by German soldiers during World War I. It was later developed in the 1930s under King Carol II. For decades it was either closed or in poor condition. A full restoration was completed around 2012.

Locals call it the “Road of the Gods.” It’s easy to see why.

Almost Empty

The Transfăgărășan gets crowded in summer. Transalpina is a completely different story.

Virtually no tourists. Just silence, clouds and views.

I brought deck chairs with me. At the very top I set them up and lay there for a few hours. Fresh mountain air, endless views, pure calm. I drove back to Vurpar full of energy.

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Unexpected Change — Dialysis at 7:45 AM

During one of my sessions I met the clinic’s chief physician.

He told me about the upcoming Sibiu Cycling Tour — an event he personally founded.

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He also told me he needed to change my dialysis time. From 12:30 to 7:45 in the morning.

Early morning sessions are not my favourite — but sometimes you simply have to adapt.

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Day Trip — Sighișoara, Biertan, Viscri

My last day free of dialysis was meant for exploring the most beautiful towns in Transylvania — Sighișoara, Biertan and Viscri. Unfortunately my car had other plans. Everything changed in an instant.

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Broken Down in the Middle of Nowhere

I was driving back to Vurpar. Nothing around. Complete wilderness.

The car stopped.

An Hour on the Phone — No Result

I had comprehensive insurance (AC). I called. Nearly an hour of conversations. No tow truck available nearby. Just wait.

Hours passed.

Julian — An Absolute Legend

I decided to take matters into my own hands.

I called my host Julian. It turned out he had a friend living near where I’d broken down. He asked her to help. She took me back to Vurpar — a 2-hour drive, in the middle of the night.

Julian also arranged a tow truck. The driver had a real problem — my car has an automatic gearbox, which means you can’t tow or pull it in the traditional way. The truck was old-fashioned. But eventually it worked.

I got back to Vurpar at around 4 in the morning.

3 Hours of Sleep and Dialysis at 7:45

That night I slept 3 hours.

Julian drove me to dialysis. While I was at the clinic, he organised repairs at a Skoda service centre in Sibiu.

Getting the parts took several days. The repairs took another 3.

My Romanian trip extended by over two weeks.

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End of Part One

Transylvania is a region that has something for everyone.

Incredible mountain roads, beautiful historic towns and authentic regional food — it truly delivers on every front. What is equally important — Romania and the Transylvania region are genuinely friendly towards dialysis patients.

My broken-down car completely changed my plans and extended my stay by almost two weeks. In the next post — the Transylvanian towns I explored in detail once I finally collected my car from the Skoda service centre.

Romania Transylvania od Dialysis Part 2 – click click !!!!